BeriCos® Retinol PB7 Technical Introduction & Formulation Guide
BeriCos® Retinol-PB7
Technical Introduction & Formulation Guide
1. Product Introduction
BeriCos® Retinol-PB7 is a yellow, viscous, transparent retinol nano-emulsion for cosmetic skin-conditioning application. It contains 6.0-8.0 % retinol (Vitamin A alcohol derivative), together with sebacate ester solvents, antioxidants, bisabolol and tocopherol derivatives to stabilize retinol and mitigate irritation risk.Compared with retinal, this retinol material shows better oxidative stability and gentler skin compatibility. After topical application, retinol converts sequentially into retinal and retinoic acid within skin tissue, regulating gene expression to accelerate cell turnover, stimulate collagen synthesis, improve fine lines, mild wrinkles, uneven skin tone and rough texture. It is well-suited for retinol beginners and moderately sensitive skin types for anti-aging skincare development.
Key advantages:
·
Higher oxidation resistance than retinal for longer formula shelf-life
· Milder than retinal and retinoic acid
· Promotes collagen renewal and reduces photo-aging signs
· Good compatibility with most common cosmetic raw materials
2. Application Method & Important Notes
Recommended Dosage
Maximum addition level in finished cosmetics: ≤4.0 % (w/w). Formulators shall calculate final retinol equivalent concentration according to regional regulatory requirements.
Manufacturing Processing Guidance
1. Addition temperature: Incorporate at coolingdown phase after emulsification, controlled at 30-35 °C, do not exceed 40 °C. High temperature accelerates retinol degradation.
2. Incorporation stage: Add after oil-water emulsification is completed. Apply gentle-to-moderate stirring; avoid high-shear homogenization post-addition to reduce air-oxygen contact.
3. pH requirement: Maintain finished formula pH within 5.0-7.5, optimal range 5.5-7.0. Avoid strong acid (pH<4.5) or strong alkali (pH>8.0), which trigger active ingredient decomposition.
4. Light & oxygen protection: Conduct production under low-light conditions; use opaque mixing tanks and opaque packaging for finished goods. Seal containers tightly.
Storage & Shelf-life for Raw Material
Store in tightly sealed container protected from light.
· 2-10 °C sealed storage: shelf life 2 years
· 10-20 °C sealed storage: shelf life 1 year
The raw material is sensitive to heat, light and oxygen; avoid repeated freezethaw cycles.
Formulation Warning
Do not combine with strong exfoliants (high concentration AHAs/BHAs) without pretesting compatibility. Add extra antioxidants if the formula system is prone to oxidation.
Note: All below formulations are reference demo formulas only, for laboratory evaluation purpose. Full stability test, compatibility test and regulatory compliance check are required before mass production.
3. Reference Formula 1: Anti-Aging Moisturizing Face Cream (O/W Cream, total 100 %)
Phase | INCI Name | Percentage, wt% | Remarks |
A (Water phase) | Aqua | 76.00 |
|
| Glycerin | 5.00 | Humectant |
| Propanediol | 3.00 | Humectant |
| Sodium Hyaluronate | 0.10 |
|
| Xanthan Gum | 0.20 |
|
| Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate | 0.10 | Chelator |
B (Oil phase) | Cetearyl Alcohol | 3.00 | Emollient & thickener |
| Glyceryl Stearate | 2.50 | O/W Emulsifier |
| Squalane | 2.00 | Emollient |
| Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate | 2.00 | Emollient |
| Tocopheryl Acetate | 0.30 | Antioxidant |
Cooldown phase (<35 °C) | BeriCos® Retinol-PB7 | 2.50 | Add under gentle stirring |
| Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin | 1.30 | Preservative system |
| Citric acid / Sodium Hydroxide | q.s. | Adjust pH to 5.86.5 |
Processing brief: Heat phase A and B separately to 75‑80 °C. Add phase B into phase A under homogenization. Cool batch down to 30‑35 °C, add Retinol‑PB7 and preservatives with slow stirring. Adjust pH. Fill into opaque containers.
4. Reference Formula 2: Light-Weight Anti-Aging Lotion (O/W Lotion, total 100 %)
Phase | INCI Name | Percentage, wt% | Remarks |
A (Water phase) | Aqua | 82.20 |
|
| Glycerin | 4.00 |
|
| Butylene Glycol | 3.00 |
|
| Sodium Hyaluronate | 0.08 |
|
| Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer | 0.22 |
|
| Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate | 0.10 |
|
B (Oil phase) | Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate | 2.20 | Naturalorigin emulsifier |
| Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride | 2.00 | Light emollient |
| CocoCaprylate | 1.50 |
|
Cooldown phase (<35 °C) | BeriCos® Retinol-PB7 | 2.00 | Add under gentle mixing |
| Preservative blend (Phenoxyethanol & Ethylhexylglycerin) | 1.20 |
|
| Sodium Hydroxide / Citric Acid | q.s. | Adjust pH to 5.76.4 |
Processing brief: Heat A & B phases to 70‑75 °C. Combine phases with moderate homogenization. Cool to 30‑35 °C, incorporate BeriCos® Retinol‑PB7 and preservatives, adjust pH, fill into opaque bottles.
5. Reference Formula 3: Gentle Anti-Aging Eye Cream (O/W, total 100 %)
Formulated for delicate eye‑area skin; lower retinol‑PB7 dosage for mild performance.
Phase | INCI Name | Percentage, wt% | Remarks |
A (Water phase) | Aqua | 80.40 |
|
| Glycerin | 5.00 |
|
| Propanediol | 3.00 |
|
| Sodium Hyaluronate | 0.15 |
|
| Hydrolyzed Collagen | 0.30 |
|
| Xanthan Gum | 0.15 |
|
| Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate | 0.10 |
|
B (Oil phase) | Cetyl Alcohol | 1.80 | Thickener |
| Glyceryl Stearate Citrate | 2.00 | Mild emulsifier |
| Squalane | 1.50 |
|
| Bisabolol | 0.20 | Soothing agent |
| Tocopheryl Acetate | 0.20 | Antioxidant |
Cooldown phase (<35 °C) | BeriCos® Retinol-PB7 | 1.20 | Low dosage for eye zone |
| Preservative system | 1.20 |
|
| Citric acid / Sodium Hydroxide | q.s. | pH adjusted to 5.66.3 |
Processing brief: Heat phase A and B separately to 75 °C. Emulsify by adding oil phase into water phase. Cool to 30‑35 °C, add BeriCos® Retinol‑PB7, bisabolol and preservatives under low‑speed stirring. Fine‑tune pH value. Fill into opaque eye‑cream packaging.
Disclaimer: All above formulas serve as reference examples. Formulators shall run compatibility, thermal‑cycle stability, photostability and safety evaluation before commercial launch. Please consult BERI PHARMA technical team for further technical support.
Welcome to ask for samples or documents: Elena@zhberi.com
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